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Set along a craggy rock overhang, the ornate Buddhist temple overlooks the ocean and is a popular spot to watch the sunrise against the beauty of Busan, South Korea’s second largest city.
However, Haedong Yonggungsa Temple is more than just a place of worship.
According to local travel agencies, this temple is the number one tourist attraction for foreign tourists to visit when visiting the city. The contrast between the dramatic rock formations and crashing wave crests and the tall white Buddha statue is striking, but that’s no coincidence. The location was chosen according to the principles of feng shuijiri, which are similar to feng shui. A location between the mountains and the sea was considered lucky.
It’s instantly recognizable among the social media savvy, who have made Haedong Yonggungsa Temple as synonymous with Busan as Sydney’s Harbor Bridge or New York’s Statue of Liberty, and it’s something you’ll recognize even if you’ve never set foot there.
“Most of our customers want to take photos in the sunlight at Yonggungsa Temple,” says Jung “JJ” Jiho, founder of Korean travel agency Lecirt.
Jung said he and his staff are always on hand to help customers set up and take photos, with some even suggesting the best angle or place to stand.
Helping people take the perfect Instagram snapshot is part of the standard job for tour guides these days. But it also hints at how tourism to South Korea has changed over the past decade, as South Korea rides the popular “Korean wave” brought on by the global success of K-pop, K-dramas, and Korean skin care and beauty products.
“Before COVID-19, the tourism market (in South Korea) was more like a package tour that included hotels and flights,” Chung said. “Since five to seven years ago, the market trend has changed to independent travel. Customers want more free time.”
Busan has earned the nickname “City of Movies” due to the success of the Busan International Film Festival, which has been held every fall since 1996.
Its pop culture value has grown internationally, thanks to movies like Train to Busan and a warm, coastal climate with a burgeoning surfing community. It also attracts tourists who want to combine city travel with outdoor time. There are many Buddhist temples across the country, but Haedong Yonggungsa Temple is one of the few located along the coast.
According to Chung, Busan has become a destination for tourists to explore more deeply. They often visit Korea as repeat visitors, wanting to learn more and stay longer. They are also younger and more independent, choosing to book their own flights and accommodation. But they rely on local experts to show them the best spots in town, especially those that are only accessible to Korean speakers.
In response, Lecirt began offering day tours with more customizable itineraries. Almost all of them include Haedong Yonggungsa Temple.
The company’s “High Busan” day tour also includes a stop at Gamcheon Culture Village, a Korean War-ravaged area decorated with pastel paintings and murals, and lunch at the city’s Jagalchi Fish Market, where customers can buy live seafood from one of the countless stalls and go upstairs to have it cooked to their liking.
Haedong Yonggungsa Temple is beautiful, some call it the most beautiful temple in the country, but tourists are looking for more than photos, Chung said. Western tourists, in particular, are interested in Korean history and want to know the context of what they’re seeing, especially those who didn’t study Asian history in school, he said.
This includes the background of Haidong Ryugusha.
This temple was first established in the 14th century and is dedicated to the goddess of mercy, Kwansombosal. Its shining white statue auspiciously peeks out towards the sea from behind the temple. On either side of the central tower are four stone lions representing joy, anger, sadness, and happiness.
Enter the temple by walking up the traditional 108 steps, passing statues of 12 animals representing the Chinese zodiac signs, and you’ll see a tall white pagoda on your left. A sign in Korean and English reads “Traffic Safety Tower.”
Here, people leave offerings, pray for themselves and their loved ones, and ask for safety while driving and on the road. However, long before cars became popular in Korea, this place was a place to pray for the safety and success of the fishermen who supported Busan’s livelihood.
There are also spots dedicated to praying for children, improving grades, and praying for good health and longevity. The temple’s busiest day is January 1st, when worshipers come to watch the first sunrise of the year.
The temple was originally named Bomun, but its current name was given to Haedong Yonggungsa Temple (Yonggungsa Temple) in 1974 after a monk there had a vision of the Goddess of Mercy riding on the back of a dragon. Fittingly, the temple has a bright blue dragon sculpture.
Some buildings were destroyed by fire in the late 1500s, but have since been rebuilt. Other newer sections were added in the 20th century as Busan’s star rose and Korea became a richer and more powerful country.
Despite its seeming ubiquity and having already seen countless photos of it, Chan admitted that he was still in awe when he first visited Haedong Yongunsa Temple.
This guide grew up between South Korea and the United States, and mainly lived in Seoul for work. However, as Resato grew, he started joining Busan tours as a regular guest and experiencing Busan for himself.
“When you go up that hill and you get to the square where you see the sculptures and the ocean view… it was just amazing.”
